Marvin's Ear

My partner found this

AAJ article

about a fully bolted route not far from the popular Mile High Club and the new Beyond Redlining. Sure enough, the route exists and was a fun day out! This route is located on the tower to the climbers right of Vega Tower.

Grades and pitch length are estimates, but we tried to keep notes on the number of bolts. Feel free to update if any of the info is incorrect. The route is bolt protected and the cruxes seemed well protected, but bolts are sometimes spaced on easier terrain (5.9 and below). The route is decently clean, but still has loose rock.

Pitch 1: Scramble up to high first bolt with fun stemming on mostly good rock up high. 100 feet (4 bolts), 5.9.

Pitch 2: Edges and some slab moves more or less straight up from the belay. 90 feet (6 bolts), 10a.

Pitch 3: Walk/scramble on ledges. Clip one bolt and scramble towards the anchor. 100 feet (1 bolt), 5.0.

Pitch 4: Follow the bolts up the broad ridge. 115 feet (9-10 bolts), 5.9.

Pitch 5: Follow bolts trending left towards the end of the pitch. Move past for the first set of anchors (rap anchors) to the next set of bolts farther left. This will set you up the belay the following pitch. 100 feet (10 bolts), 10-.

Pitch 6: Cruxy move over bulge leads to another cruxy section. Rope drag was an issue, but could be managed by extending a few draws. 115 feet (9 bolts), 10b.

Pitch 7: Cool traverse left then up through a fun corner and to the anchor just below the summit. 100 feet (9 bolts), 10-.

Short scramble to the summit. Most will want to stay on belay for this section.

Descent:

Rap the route with a 70M. Most of the pulls were easy, but be mindful of pinches and loose rock.

Pulled this from Mile High Club:

Although this route is fully bolted, climbers must be prepared to handle steep snow in spring, multiple rappels on the descent, and some loose rock on ledges. Care should be taken to avoid knocking rocks off.

I reached out the FA to ask about putting this on Mountain Project, but I did not hear back. Hopefully, others will check out the route, and thanks to the FA team for all of the work!

Follow the Sunrise Mine trail approximately two and a half miles to the last major switchback (~4300 foot elevation) before the trail begins zig zagging up to Headlee Pass. Leave the trail and begin a surprisingly easy traverse northeast across talus toward the Mile High buttress. Cairns mark the way well enough. Pass just above a large flat-topped boulder near the first set of trees. Follow a natural passage through the small stand of trees to a second open talus field. From there, we headed mostly straight up staying to the left of and short cliff. We snaked our way through loose 3rd class terrain to a flat spot before the terrain steepens. We scrambled up a short section of exposed 4th class (towards the left side of the flat area) to a big grassy ledge. We belayed the first pitch from that ledge. This was partially pulled from the Mile High Club description.

We climbed this late in the year and found running water near the base of the route.

Quick draws and a few alpine draws. 70M rope.