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Peak Mountain 3

A Better Deal

FA MisterCattell Cattell
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UPDATED 

Description

This is now the preferred approach pitch to The Left Deal and The Right Deal. There is a 5.11c one-move-wonder at the 6th (final) bolt that can easily be done A0 by pulling on the quickdraw, in which case the rating is reduced to 5.8 A0.

Location

Hike up the canyon a few hundred yards past Rigel's Wall to a section of narrows (this is shortly after Jaccard Hand-O-Lin) . Look for the Left and Right Deals in an alcove (refer to posted photos). There is an obvious dark approach slab. The Raw Deal approach pitch (not recommended) and A Better Deal both climb this slab to the same belay at the base of the alcove. A Better Deal is the slab route to the climbers right of The Raw Deal.

Protection

6 bolts and wrap a sling around a small tree after the bolts. There is a two bolt rappel anchor shortly after the tree, forming the belay anchor for the Left and Right Deals.