three evils

A direct line up the slightly overhanging west side of this lil side canyon.  Mixed quality rock ranging from excellent to poor. a definite adventure! Rap route with 1 70 meter ropepitch 1: A reachy bolt ladder leads to a spicy move to gain the crack system. shallow offset placements eventually lead to a finger then short hand crack to anchor.  Might go free at 5.hard? A hook and #2 beak would come in handy C2    35 mpitch 2: A few hard moves thru a roof on suspect rock lead to a left facing handcrack full of shrub but good gear and jams. then a steep bulge on good rock with 2 options, we went right, to anchors.  5.10+    20 mpitch 3: money pitch. up varied hand size crack thru several steep bulges on very good rock. nice patinas help thru steep climbing. 5.10-   25 mpitch 4: Up dirty hands to off width to chimney crack thru a bush or 2. then a move right to a ledge. continue straight up th face past 2 bolts and a couple cams to a spicy topout.  5.10 pg-13    30 m

river left side of insomnia, sand kassle canyon. west side

doubles .3 to 3, one 4. Extra 2 and 3. small stoppers. small hook and small beaks would be nice for the next party. 1 70 m rope