Black Fly

Black Fly is a Valley classic that sees little traffic. Likely because of the difficulty and the lack of information about the route. Black Fly shares the initial boulder problem of Final Cut then splits left, climbing intermittent finger cracks and seams. More or less mid 5.12 climbing up the first half of the route, to a difficult and technical boulder problem. The crux revolves around pulling the elevator door apart on marginal gaston crimps. Very precise, tension dependent foot movements. This route has to be one of the best sport climbs in the Valley.

The left most line on the lower tier of the Public Sanitation wall.  Begins off a small ledge 30 feet up. Requires an approach pitch at 5.9.

Bolts, 8 or 9. The bolting on the bottom is a little sparse, it is helpful to extend the bolt above the initial boulder so you clip before doing the heel hook mantle move.