- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route climbs up the middle of the wall, passing a large roof halfway up. Take the approach in the area description. At the top of the scree slope there is a 20' A-frame cave and an outcrop of rock 10ft further along the wall that creates a 3ft wide chimney with the wall. The start of this route is located on the right side of the large ledge above this cave and requires about 15ft of 5.1 climbing to get to, see photo. P1: From the bolted belay follow bolts up a left arching crack feature, pull over a bulge and traverse up and left, eventually making a cruxy mantle to the bolted anchor. 80ft, 5.11cP2: Make some improbable slab moves to the left of the belay, eventually traversing right to pull through the middle of the roof using large holds at the lip (crux). Follow bolts up the face to the anchor. NOTE: This pitch has some crumbly rock above/left of the belay, when climbing stay to the left of and be delicate with this loose rock. 70ft, 5.11dP3: This pitch follows bolts up and right eventually pulling around a small arete to the face and anchor above. While this pitch is short I wouldn't recommend linking it with the next, as they both wander a bit and the rope drag would be horrible. 40ft, 5.10+P4: Follow bolts up the face through several technical sections to reach an anchor just below the top of the cliff. 90ft 5.11bRap the route, including down from the ledge where the route begins.
Location
Take the approach in the area description and at the top of the scree slope there is a 20' A-frame cave and a fin of rock 10 ft further along the wall that creates a 3ft wide chimney with the wall. The start of this route is located on the left side of the large ledge above this cave and rock fin and requires about 15ft of 5.1 climbing to get to, see photo.
Protection
12 draws
Routes in House of Leaves Area
- 1House of Leaves5.11dSport