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Peak Mountain 3

Live and Let Live

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Description

This is an interesting climb in an odd position. It has good rock and good protection leading to a fixed anchor. This would be a reasonable lead for a beginning trad leader, BUT you must climb the much harder [Approach 4.0]]106789250 to reach the upper tier.

After reaching the upper tier via [Approach 4.0]]106789250, walk eastward past "

My Clone...

", "Real Men...", and "

Storm Watch

".  Just inside the cave-like opening behind a leaning pillar is a tight, right-facing corner with a clean, short crack. Climb up this cave/corner/chimney exiting right though a wide slot (not a squeeze) and head right onto a ledge. Head back left (3-4" cam for protection) onto a ledge formed by the top of the pillar that created the cave, and then up the easy slab above this (5.3 moves with no pro above the ledge) to a bolt-and chain anchor. Belay here then rap off to the climber's left of the pillar back to the upper tier ledge.

Location

This route is on the upper tier of the South Face of The Heap, obscured behind a leaning pillar.

Protection

Mostly cams from 1-3.5" and a few longer slings.