Northeast Snowfield and Couloir

This route ascends the snow slope and couloir Northeast of the summit formation. (Couloir on right in photo.) The crux is the narrow (5-10 feet wide) upper couloir. Gain the Northwest ridge and scramble to summit. Descent: descend NE Ridge past the top of the NE couloir to small notch, and descend moderate snow slopes into Paintbrush Canyon.

I do not recommend traveling a long distance for this route alone, but if you are hiking the Paintbrush Canyon Loop, and have an ice axe and crampons with you anyway, this is a superb addition to your journey.

A round trip from a high camp can easily be accomplished in 4-5 hours from Upper Paintbrush Canyon.

This route could be skied by a skilled person, under the right conditions.

From Upper Paintbrush Canyon, this route is the snow slope and couloir immediately North of the summit.

I descended the Northwest ridge to a small notch, then descended a series of moderate snow slopes to my camp in Upper Paintbrush Canyon

Don't fall. This is a steep snow couloir at the top. A self arrest is a dubious proposition. I brought one lightweight short ice axe, light alpine boots, and Kahtoola chain/spike crampons. You may wish to bring two tools and real crampons. Temperatures were above freezing when I climbed it, but the snow surface was hard, nevertheless, and step kicking required some oomph.