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Peak Mountain 3

Dachau

FA Dan Hare, Scott Woodruff
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Dachau was retro-bolted in 2017 with the permission of the first ascent party after a key hold broke on the most runout section of the original line which was done in 1984 with only one bolt.

Look for a positive crimp to clip from just inches right of the 2nd bolt. It is a bit runout above the 6th bolt, but the climbing is easy at that point and not nearly as run as the first ascent on gear.

The original 5.11a trad line shared the start with Iron Curtain just to the right then moved left along a dirty line of weakness near the top. The sport route adds a direct start as well as a cleaner direct finish and bumps the grade up a little.

It was a bold effort by the FA party to do this line with one bolt! As a sport climb, it's excellent power endurance climbing and as good as anything else on this stacked wall.

Location

It is the second bolted line from the left on the Berlin Wall.

Protection

7 bolts to a new anchor at the top of the wall.

The original version of this line was lead with 1 bolt and gear at 11-, avoiding the direct start and finish.