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Start just right of
Slave to the Rhythm
. Undercling and kneebar out the huge, right-facing flake until you can gain some face holds back left moving up to the third bolt. After the fourth bolt, traverse hard right on perfect pebbles similar to the holds on
Slave
, and catch a good rest in a right-facing corner. Now comes the hard part... thin face holds and pebbles lead up past the fifth, sixth, and seventh bolts. Now set up up for the final boulder problem dyno over the last bulge.
Be sure to do the big king swing after cleaning your draws.
Protection
8 QDs with fixed anchors. It is a little difficult to clean QDs from the anchor (rope drag/rope shredder). I used to leave fixed QDs on the last two bolts and clean from those.
Routes in East Ironing Board
- 3Honemaster Lambada5.14aSport