War On Freedom

Vaino Kodas & I bolted it in 2003, and it wasn't until years later that I redpointed it with Stuart Ritchie belaying me. I thought there already was info on this website about this route. I guess not.

A 5.12 start with a left heel hook past 2nd bolt leads to easier climbing. This is also the direct start to

Bobsled

(aka: Warsled). Gain a small ledge rest. Continue up a vertical face that becomes progessively harder. A big span from a sidepull-undercling to a crimp leads past 7th bolt. Here I was forced left below 8th bolt to

Bobsled's

right-facing corner. After making a move up the corner, get into a wide stem. Reach a thin seam crack with left hand & then a shallow, down-flaring fingerlock in a seam with the righthand & move back right onto the face. The crux is the next two moves with off a rounded lieback & a sloping hold. Continue with a dyno to a pocket followed by an awkward finish. To my knowledge, someone has climbed the route directly up the face past 8th bolt at 5.13b/c without stemming to the

Bobsled

dihedral. That individual suceeded a few months after my first free ascent. I thought I would find the info on this site. They deserve credit for being the first to climb the direct line.

This route is between

Bobsled

and

Lucky Strikes

.

10 bolts to 2 bolt anchor shared with

Lucky Strikes

.