- Edit (TBD)
Description
Awesome thin face climbing up the right side of Techweenie Buttress. At times, look around the right side to find hidden holds on the corner. The crux comes around bolt 5 and was, for me, trusting an improbable highstep. At the top, step left to the 2-bolt anchor above Completely Clueless. This climb was probably bolted on lead, but climbs like a sport climb now (no gear, just safely-spaced bolts).
The old Hill Sandia guide shows an obscure 2nd pitch to this route, at 5.10c (on the topo) or 5.11 (in the route description), and is reportedly really fun steep climbing with intermittent gear and pins. I didn't climb it, but to do it, step left to the highest bolt on Bojin and go up a seam passing some fixed pins and then angle to the right. Bring gear if you're doing p2. Judging from the color of the bail biner I collected on p1 (purple on one side, gray on the sunny side), p1 doesn't see much action either.
Location
Rightmost of the 3 sport climbs on the the smooth face of Techweenie Buttress, right of Crackula
Protection
6 or 7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. The last (7th) bolt is useful as a directional for a follower, but is so close to the anchor that it isn't helpful on lead. 3 of the bolts are 1/4".
Quickdraws only for p1. Bring gear if continuing up p2.
Routes in Techweeny Buttress
- 3Crankenstein5.11bSport