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Peak Mountain 3

Spank the Monkey

FA Mark Allman
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The right route on the wall. The start is fun limestone pockets, changing to good, positive holds. The crux comes after crossing the crack (after clipping the 5th bolt, see photo).

The rock on

Spank the Monkey

seemed quite a bit better than the route next to it (

Vengeance is Mine

). The pocket area near the bottom is quite solid, and most of the holds on the left side of the crack seem good. There was, however, one fairly large semi-detached flake that looks like it would be a great jug, but it is a bit loose.

The Ruckman guide shows this route as completely separate from

Vengeance is Mine

until the anchors (and that is how I show it in the topo photo). However, it is a bit run out after the last bolt and if you fell near the top you would almost certainly hit a ledge below, which would be a bad thing. Fortunately it is easy to clip the last bolt on

Vengeance is Mine

.

Protection

7 bolts to chain anchors with quick links.


Routes in Upper Bug Barn Dance Wall


  1. 2
    Spank the Monkey
    5.9
    Sport