- Edit (TBD)
Description
Pitch 1: 5.10B Good rock and 8 bolts takes you to a nice ledge and two bolt rappel anchor about 90 feet up the wall. Technical finish to a real enjoyable pitch.
Pitch 2: 5.11A Steep and positive 100 foot pitch on great rock. A real gem.
Pitch 3: 5.10D Right from the belay anchors and find your way through a roof. Stop at a two bolt anchor in a big gold ledge/ cave. One of the best belay positions in the canyon.
Pitch 4: 5.11A Climb right out the cave on positive holds to a headwall crux out of view of your belayer. Go past rap anchors to a ledge with two bolt anchors.
Pitch 5: 5.9 Climb up and then left to a clean face, to the top of the wall.
Rappel the route with one 60 meter rope or walk off. Gets a lot of sun and is sheltered from the north winds. Great climbing on steep, positive rock. Originally I linked pitches, and stopped less. The route has such great belay ledges, and to reduce rope drag, I recommend doing the route in five pitches.
Location
South Buttress of the South Main Wall.
Protection
Well protected with bolts, chain rap anchors at belays, can rap from any place on route with single 60M.