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Peak Mountain 3

Cap'm Pissgums

FA Dave Baker, Mark Axen
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

pitch 1-clip a bolt and stem a strenuous face (very, very tricky 5.10/10+) into a bottomless chimney past 2 bolts to alcove (18m).pitch 2 Step around right to gain main crack and belay at bolt at base of chimney (5.7, 25m).pitch 3 Climb right side of chimney past 'death block' (repeat, do not touch) and belay in 3" crack w/ one bolt (5.7, 25m).pitch 4 Climb the spectacular overhanging crack in V chimney (mostly 2", 5.10+) to belay above "Y" w/ heads and cams (35m).pitch 5 follow crack up and right, then left at bulge to sloping ledge below 2 1/4" aid bolts (5.7). pitch 6, A.0 to summit OR step right to a newer bolt and 5.10 face to summit (10m).

Location

NE face of End Dome (polar opposite of Days of Future Past). It is the obvious crack system.

Protection

Double camming units, .4 - #4 w/ extra 2", stoppers, and a ballnut can help at start.