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Peak Mountain 3

Face to Face

FA Ellie Borton, Jim Borton. October 10, 2020
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

From one face to another. Climb the lower face using the middle (i.e., the lower section of Big Squeeze) crack. Stay in the crack as much as possible. This is the crux. At the top of this lower slab continue up and right on the arete. You can make this a fun 2-pitch route by building a bomber anchor in the horizontal at the top of the slab. If you chose to continue as a single pitch, avoid stepping on the ledge to the left. Lie back flakes up and right, onto the upper face. Sink some good cam placements. Become one with the moss (this is Maryland after all). Rock is sharp. You may draw blood. Follow a line just to the left of Charitable View.

Location

The middle of the northeast face.

Protection

Cams and Tricams. A well-seated hex at the bottom to protect the awkward move off the ground.