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Peak Mountain 3

Ad Lib

FA Stuart Ruckman, Libby Ellis, 1986
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is the obvious right-leaning thin crack just left of a low angle right-leaning, left-facing dihedral on the north face of Dead Snag. A mix of jamming and face moves gets progressively more difficult toward the top. Stuart gave the route one out of three stars when he and Libby cleaned and climbed it in 1986, but lichen and vegetation invaded the crack until it was “restored” in March 2015. Get it before it grows back! The north face of Dead Snag rarely gets sun, so it’'s comfortable all day during the dog days of summer.

Location

Right (north) of

North Dihedrals

, around the corner on the smoothish north face of Dead Snag. Approach by either walking downhill along the wall from the

North Dihedrals

to Dead Snag's toe and turning left to thrash up through the bushes and scree, or follow the approach to

Social Engineering

and drop downhill maybe 25 feet. Rap or lower from the original pins backed up by a new bolt.

Protection

Set of wireds and cams to a red Camalot (no. 1). Microcams are useful.