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Description
One of those love it or hate it lines, certainly love until you fall off. An interesting 'approach' pitch starts at the right side of the NW face. Climb up some face holds before reaching a right-facing dihedral capped by a significant roof. Climb under this roof, tougher perhaps for the tall and lank as the decent feet are only 2 feet below the handjams, to the right and around the corner (5.9), belay above the roof back to the left on a spacious ledge.
Now, the serious fun begins. Climb the hand crack through some kinks, before it straightens out, heads steeper, and thins from hands to rattly fingers. Inconceivably wonderful.
Protection
Standard rack to 3 inches, heavy on the 1 to 2 inch variety. Double cams in the #1 to #2 friend variety aid in the swift ascent typically needed on the second pitch. Bolted rap anchor at the top.
Routes in Holdout
- 26Beefeater5.10bTrad