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Peak Mountain 3

Hydrophobic Coyote

FA Peter Gallagher, Brad Shilling 1983
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Hydrophobic coyote is an adventurous, blue collar tower route- plenty of wider climbing and loose rock on this one!

This was the second tower on the butte, and thought to be the easiest way to the summit. Apparently hydrophobia is a symptom of rabies, so watch for any suspicious looking coyotes running about..

P1- start in the hand crack in a left facing corner to a ledge. Continue up through a slightly bulgy off-width slot, and a fist crack in a flare. This brings you to a flake where you can clip a bolt, and traverse right to another bolt and finally a fist crack that leads to a ledge (3.5 Camalots or 4 friends work well here as the 3 Camalot was a bit too small).  140ft. 5.10a

P2- we took the left most crack as it seemed to have the best rock. Climb hands in a flare to a slot (stemming the crack to the right helps here). The crack narrow to fingers, and a few face moves brings you to another ledge. Continue up through a broken chimney to the belay. Book calls this pitch 5.8, but the crack we climbed felt more like 5.10a. 5.8+ 150ft

P3- step down and traverse right to an anchor for the route sucker punch, Clip the anchor and continue heading right (40ft Total) to a splitter hand crack that can be made easier by stemming a block behind it. Belay on a big ledge. 5.8 100ft

P4- move the belay approximately 40 feet left to a set of opposing corners that are about 20 ft up (there was a small cairn marking the spot). Climb easy terrain to the crack on the left. Jam the right facing dihedral to the summit. 5.8 100ft

Rappel the route aging salesman with 2x 60 meter ropes or an 80m rope.

Location

This is located on the north end of Bridger jack mesa

Protection

1x 0.3 Camalot, 2x 0.5 Camalots to 1 Camalot. 4x #2 Camalot, 4x #3 Camalot, 2x # 3.5 Camalot or 4 friend, 2x 4 Camalot, and 1x # 5 (optional but helpful p1ow)