- Edit (TBD)
Description
Just as good as its neighbor, and probably a touch harder. Bolted by Sean Kearney, a few folks tried over the years via a hard gaston sequence at the crux, probably v10 or so by itself. In January 2020, I found a different method bringing the crux closer to v8 or so, and after a few days of effort was able to send this brilliant pitch. Start with the same v6 compression boulder of the Jackal, but clip the bolt to the left. From the jug, make a v5 crimp traverse to the left, ending in a jug slot with poor feet. Clip the second bolt and begin the crux, likely a hard v8, which starts with a couple hard moves to gain a slot under a roof, and finishes with a hard throw to a jug above the roof, using either a slopey dish or a narrow crack. From here you've got a final v5 sequence locking down a crimp, which is definitely no gimme from the ground. After this, a good rest followed by spectacular 12- climbing takes you to the chains. There are 2 lines of bolts after this rest - Injective takes the right line. The left line is no harder, but I chose to go right bc the rock seemed better and the moves more enjoyable.
Location
Shares start with Jackal
Protection
Bolts