- Edit (TBD)
Description
Start up the featured and vertical face, placing a 0.5 to get to the first bolt. Really fun climbing gets you to a no hands rest. Place gear as desired on the way up and right to an arete/groove. Clip a 2nd bolt, and pull another cruxy move. The intended line is climbed on the right side of the arete, and the bolt is placed to suggest so; however, it's still possible to climb left with an easier sequence. Either way feels in line with the route, with the right option being on better rock. Look for smaller gear in a horizontal if desired (nice to protect a toprope). Scramble up and slightly left to a bolted face. If you place gear to get you to the next bolt, be sure to have some double length slings. The next bolt is a little ways, but the climbing is easy. Crimp and smear your way up an intermittent seam. Look for a good, small, and necessary nut placement on your way. It has sustained, challenging, and excellent climbing to the chains.
The meat of the climbing on this is excellent and on great rock. Too bad there is a large ledge in the middle breaking it up.
Location
Look for a vertical face with a bolt to the left of
Scrooge McDuck
.
Protection
5 bolts & 0.2/blue Metolius through a #1. Depending on your small nut selection, you may want to bring some brass nuts to sort out the placement on the final face. Bringing that selection of cams should give you enough options to protect about as much as you could.
Routes in South Side
- 6Hollow Bones5.12aTrad