John Burcham Spire

Prime real estate summit in the way-back of Mormon Canyon that combines an aesthetic feature with quality climbing--something of a rarity for the usual Mormon Canyon summit outing.

P1--Beautiful widening splitter crack with a stemming start; baggy fingers widens to hands, before pinching back down to the top of the pillar that this crack forms. A great crack, but don't inspect the foundation of this somewhat spooky pillar too close or jam too hard on your way up. From the ledge at the top of the crack, clip a bolt and step left into a blocky chimney system that leads easily to a cool corridor in the notch between the upper spire and the wall behind. There is some looseness on this stretch, but it's pretty easy to climb around. 2-bolt anchor on the wall to the left of the corridor. (.10, 110')

P2--Wide stemming out of the corridor to a ledge, then up to a 2nd ledge with a bolt, then launch up the face above past two more bolts and over a punchy little roof. Continue straight up the crack/weakness above with incipient gear, eventually leading to a shallow left-facing corner with a 4th and final bolt protecting a rad big move. Air it out on great jugs to the top. (.11-, 90')

Enjoy the Burcham approved summit lounge and contemplate the wonders of his creations. 

Hike a long way... Hike up Mormon Canyon to its end at a dry waterfall. Take the last exit left through brush to a slab. Up right, over limestone band to more brush. At the slab, solo up to a bolt, crank a move then hike up right (.5 c4 protects the follower from pendulum of the year), to an anchor. Follow bowl up, at its top move right on slabs to the base of the wall. 2HR. 5.10+.

bolts In BD sizes: (1X) .2-.5 (2X) .75-#2 (1X) #3 Draws, slings (1X) 70m rope