The Milkmaid

A really good mid-11 route with a little bit of everything

American Fork

has to offer. Starts out essentially vertical, then the angle eases a bit, and ends up slightly overhanging.

Start with some fun liebacking movement through the first couple of bolts, move a bit higher, notice the feet disappear , so stem to the leaning slab to the right. Get back solely onto the face when able and continue up using pockets of varying usefulness (and sharpness).

Near the top the pockets get smaller and, perversely, someone turned most of them the wrong way. Feet are harder to find (but they're there), and a bit of body positioning flexibility will see it though to the chains.

The right line on the face which is in front of the fixed-rope gully which is at the right side of

Bingo Baby

. Next to a leaning, detached slab of limestone that lies against the face containing the bolts.

7 bolts, chain anchors.