Deep End

This route has an ambiguous history, as I was unable to track anyone down with knowledge of this line since first encountering it in 2018. I initially quested up there searching for an adventure (got what I asked for) and I ended up stumbling upon an old hex, two original RP stoppers, and a handful of pitons in a seam that led to a blank looking section of face climbing before another pin in a seam above this face.It is unclear whether these were placed on rappel while someone rapped the wall, or if they were left behind from a hard/scary aid ascent. Some carabiners and old slings were left on some pins. Either way, after a few years of trying to track down anyone familiar with this route, & finally feeling like I can efficiently workout a free variation, in 2021 I decided to replace a few pins with bolts and put effort into freeing the route. Pitch 1 | 5.12 ** 100 feet: Two starts exist, a mostly bolted but trivial ledgy romp up 5.9ish terrain, or a more interesting 5.10 gear start in the flake just to the right, which had likely been climbed before. (Just left of Charybdis) Both begin with casual climbing for about 40 feet & meet up at the Grungy Garden Ledge (bring your choss goggles), where a bolt deposits you at the base of the neon block/corner (protect with fist-sized cams). Above this ledge, the real Red Wall climbing begins. Somewhat committing moves through adventurous blocks brings you to a leftward traverse protected by two bolts. The difficulty of this pitch gradually ramps up with the hardest moves at the very end of the pitch, guarding the belay notch. Once at the belay, place a .3 cam in the crack to your right to mitigate the rope shredding swing if your follower blows the last dynamic crux moves. I would not attempt to clean this pitch without being followed. Due to the traverse to the V-notch belay, lowering from the anchor to clean may shred your rope.Rack: 7 bolts, single rack to #3 C4, micro nuts helpful. Extra small to finger-sized pieces helpful if doing the gear start to the right.Pitch 2 | 5.13- *** 110 feet: The Boomerang Pitch. From the V-notch belay, carefully start up the less than optimal rock heading towards the intimidating flake system looming overhead. Though the climbing is not difficult, the undulating flake does not inspire confidence in the cams shoved behind it. (PG-13?) It took time to place gear in thoughtful spots. The system pinches down to fingers after pulling around the right side, leading to a small crux on gear before getting to the first bolt & a forgiving jug rest. From here, follow the seam trending up & right through sparsely bolted terrain. These bolts replaced the pins that were pulled. A horizontal red Metolius or equiv. tricam can be placed in an obvious pocket to mitigate the runout between bolts 2 & 3, though the climbing is safe without doing so. Don’t expect to clip up bolts here. Big whips possible & likely. The main crux traverse is thin, technical, & inobvious, demanding delicate footwork & a dash of creativity to powerfully gain a small corner leading to a good rest at a stance & jugs. Look left for a thin seam with a piton (left for direction, can be backed up with #000, or ballnut) for one last section of tenuous climbing protected by micro nuts & C3’s. (Save a .5 for the horizontal at the end of the seam before mantling left to the anchor to protect the follower)Rack: 5 bolts, single rack 000-#4, nuts. A second #3 is helpful for psychological pro your first time up (or if aiding) the flake above the belay.Pitch 3 | 5.10 R  * 90 feet: The last pitch starts off with independent climbing up a large detached block before traversing right passing a tree on a ledge to join the last pitch of “Treebeard” (5.11). There is no protection for the traverse though the terrain is easy, and the rock left on the final pitch of Treebeard is less than optimal despite prying off the blocks that would budge. Hollow flakes are easy to climb around, just proceed with caution. Follow the grungy crack trending up and left towards the summit. Rack: single rack 00-#4Descent: Two bolt anchors at each belay. The route can be rapped with 70m rope. Straightforward descent. Or walk off the top to faint trail towards the ridge to regain gully. 

Poseidon North faceLeft of CharybdisRight of Superhighway

000 C3 - #4 C4, ballnuts.micro- finger sized nuts draws, runnerschoss gogglesAn assortment of hexes are not necessary but may be useful in lieu of hand/fist sized cams.