Anya Direct

The "

Elevenmiles to Freedom

" guidebook has this route listed as a one star 11a. I climbed it without knowing what it was and gave it 10-. The guidebook also mentions "sketchy cam placements" and "deteriorating rock". Other than the initial pillar, I thought the rock was somewhat dirty but overall quite solid, and the cam placements I found were bomber. I also thought the climbing was fantastic!

Scramble to the top of the small tombstone pillar, and pull the crux bulge using the crazy crystal jug feature and the thin seam. Establish yourself in the crack system, and enjoy technical, interesting movement to the jugs over the lip. The harder moves at the crux are protected by bolts. A bit of cleaning up will help it which will only happen with more traffic, so get out and try this thing!

Locate the ~15 foot tall, "tombstone" pillar with a bolt on it and a chimney of sorts to its left. There's a protruding, quartz jug sticking out of the headwall above the pillar with a thin seam starting just left of it. The route is between "

Canine Rescue

" (climber's left) and "

Aid Route

" (climber's right).

4 bolts, a few finger-sized pieces, and a 2 bolt anchor.