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Peak Mountain 3

Honeymoon's Over

FA Scott Ayers & John Fowler (1990)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A less-than-vertical romp up a crumbly face, Honeymoon's Over is a bit rough around the edges but ultimately worth engaging. Stem 15ft past the first bolt before fully committing to the face. Pull a wild, non-obvious series of moves to reach the third bolt. From the third bolt to the chains the climbing is reminiscent of The Forgotten Wall.

While listed as a single sport pitch, Honeymoon's Over is actually a two pitch route. The second pitch climbs to the top of the formation and requires traditional equipment. I cannot comment on this pitch.

Location

Honeymoon's Over is located between Mondo Bizzaro and Power Hungry. The former is to the left; the latter is to the right. The route starts immediately past a gap and hugs the left corner of the formation.

Protection

9 bolts to ring anchors. At times there is some distance between bolts but their placement is well thought-out. The bolting is straight-line while the climbing frequently wanders to either side.

I personally used a stick clip to secure the first bolt and to decipher a sequence between the second and third bolts. Once comfortable with the climbing, I no longer need this aid.