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Peak Mountain 3

Lip Traverse

FA ?? Paul Glover and/or John Dunn
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is the integral traverse of the Upper Ghetto, using the horns, jugs, pockets and huecos at the lip of the wall for your hands (not feet) along the entire 100-foot length of this right-to-left rising jug haul. With no real crux, but no real rest either, this is one of the funnest pump problems around, and is generally safe to boot, only gaining more than 3-4 feet of exposure in a couple of spots (mostly early on).

Up and down is probably 11+. Up, down, and up again is about 12a. Etcetera.

This serves as a perfect warm-up for the other problems at the Ghetto, all of which are harder. If you do the traverse with your feet on the lip (using nice, incut crimpers on the wall above), it probably clocks in around 5.10 or so.

Protection

Shoes, chalk.