- Edit (TBD)
Description
Maybe not as classic as Crying Time Again, but good nonetheless. If the marginal pro on the last pitch is too daunting one can easily escape right on the big ledge.
Pitch 1 - poorly protected 5.8 climbing past one bolt to a single bolt and gear belay.
Pitch 2 - steep, well protected climbing past three bolts(5.10a). Higher up a fourth bolt leads to a small ledge where you belay.
Pitch 3 - climb up on knobs and edges past two bolts to a two-bolt anchor. Crying Time Again comes in from the left, make sure you head up and right to the belay.
Pitch 4 - climb more or less straight up past two bolts to the big ledge which cuts across the face. There are some big knobs up there!
BITD, we used to combine pitches 3 & 4 into one, long rope stretching 180' pitch when the longest ropes we had were 165'!
Pitch 5 - climb up and right past a couple of pieces of fixed protection(5.10c) then head straight to the top.
Location
This route lies to the right of Crying Time Again and left of the Direct Northwest Face. Follow the 3rd class cracks which share the start with the Direct Northwest Face. Head up and left from the cracks to begin the route.
Walk off the top of Lembert Dome on ledges on the south face.
Protection
The climb is almost entirely bolt protected. Bring a rack up to 2" for the belays.