El Nino La Nina

Pitch 1: 5.10B ***

This is a great pitch on pretty solid rock that seems to get better the higher you go. There is a bit of moss but not enough to make this pitch any harder or worse. Start on sidpulls in the dihedral downhill from the Dinner Plate Route about 20 ft, directly in front of another large tree trunk. Climb up over a bulge at 15 ft (crux of the first pitch). The route then goes up mostly vertical, kind of techy, climbing on good holds with good bolt spacing to a bolted anchor. Many people rappel or lower from here. A 60 meter rope will get you to the ground from the end of p1.

Pitch 2: 5.10C PG-13 **

The second pitch starts out heady. The first bolt is a bit above the anchor and on questionable rock. I recommend clipping this while on the first pitch lead then downclimbing back to the anchor so it's already set up. Trust me this makes it a lot less intimidating. Climb straight up through the large heucos on vertical rock. The second bolt is a bit above the second large heuco (who knows why) and is a bit frightning to get to and clip if you are shorter. Once clipped though the rest of the pitch eases in difficulty. From the last bolt to the tree is really runout (30'?) but on 5.6 dirty climbing (be cautious). You can place a crap #4 cam or even better, a #5 cam, in the large crack to reduce the length of the runout. Climb to the obvious Madrone tree and set up a belay.

This climb can be done in one pitch with a 70 meter rope and makes the route a lot better. Bring about 16 draws in addition to slings for the tree belay.

Descend via the cable.

On the first wall you come to. Head downhill ~20' just before the rock goes around the corner. This climb starts in the dihedral.

Can't completely remember but I think 8 should be enough for each pitch. Bring 10 to be safe. Slings for the tree belay.