Yellow Brick Road

This is a great route on great rock- resembles the route

Butterfly

in many ways. It LACKS PROTECTION for long stretches.

Pitch 1 (5.6, S): Start up in a chimney-sized groove and after a short distance, step left up and onto the slab, heading left to intercept a line of odd brick-like blocks and puzzle-pieces. These can be climbed for ~70 meters to top out left onto a ramp and a belay.

Pitch 2 (5.7, VS): From that belay, move up a good distance to some nice boulders below a double roof. This will give you more rope for the 71-meter pitch you are about ready to do. The first above is wider and larger, the second is smaller and arch-shaped. Watching for any loose rock (and mind you, with lack of gear) go over the right side of roof #1, then up the center of roof #2. Continue up and left though a very seriously runout water-groove. You can bail-out to the right, but we found that you can continue up this perfect rock for 70 meters to join "

Baker's Way

" just below a ledge just below where it intercepts the

Direct East Face

.

Pitch 3 (5.4): Go a short way up "

Baker's Way

" and join "

Direct East Face

" for one long pitch to the summit Ridge of the "

North Arete

."

Pitch 4 & 5 (5.0): Join the

North Arete

to the summit in 2 very pitches.

A few hundred feet up and left of the

Direct East Face

, and above a massive boulder that has to be circumnavigated to get to the base. Start up into a groove just right of a junky corner.

You better be ready for runouts. Real ones. The first rope-length of climbing is quite runout in spots. The second is just plain silly for lack of gear. The third takes you up to more normal Flatirons climbing....