Pariah

This route climbs the overhanging arete on the right side of the upper headwall of the Bihedral. I did not climb this route, but watched Bret Ruckman and his partner Marco climb it, and talked with them about the climb afterward. This description is based on how they did the route.

P1: Climb the first pitch of

Bihedral Arete

and belay.

P2: Start up the last pitch of

Flags of Our Fathers

, and break right after the third bolt. Go across the slab to the arete on the right side of the upper headwall. Pariah starts here. Work up the arete past eight bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with hangers but no lowering rings. Bret and Marco left carabiners on the hangers. Lower back to the belay on Bihedral Arete.

The route has not been climbed very much, and has lots of lichen, making it more difficult. Bret said the route felt harder than 12b (the guidebook rating).

On the arete on the right side of the upper headwall on the Bihedral.

8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with no lowering rings. Carabiners in place to lower as of 3/25/07.

Bring additional gear (5 QDs, red Alien, small wire) for the section on Flags of Our Fathers.

The first pitch of Bihedral Arete has 7 bolts which can be supplemented by a few small-to-medium cams and wired nuts.