- Edit (TBD)
Description
Start at the top of a rock pile off to the right of the trail. The first 10' or so will be loose as hell, but once you get over the first ledge it gets a little more solid. Ride the first crack until it starts to get bulgy/overhung. Traverse right to the chimney. If you put your anchor where we did, you will be a good ways to the right of the anchor. Slither your way up to the top of the chimney. Go straight up to the top. CAUTION: there is an enticing hold several feet from the top that you'll likely want to grab with your right hand, it's a death block! I may have moved it enough for it to be a bit more obvious, but finish the climb with care.If you're a more adept crack climber, there's great potential for the line actually intended to take if you take the first crack all the way up and pull the roof of the second crack.
Location
Take Ol' Baldy trail from the overflow parking lot in Pecan Grove Camping Area. Once the trail turns to more of a rocky scramble you'll see a path shooting off to the left. You may hear people refer to it as the "cave trail". Take this and continue until you see a large boulder next to the wall that would require climbing over. Do not climb pass the boulder. Instead, turn right and you should see the rock pile where the climb starts.
Protection
60m rope. Set up a top rope on the top of Baldy. There's a solid juniper tree and the rock on the shelf above it to back up the tree as an anchor. You will need LONG pieces of accessory cord (20-30' each) if you want to back up the tree. Forgot to take pics, will add next time I go back. As belay, keep your eyes up and helmet on; there's potential for rock fall from above. It may go with a trad rack.