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Peak Mountain 3

Mosstique

FA Christian Burrell
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Description

A fairly fun, slabby, quartzite route with a discontinuity in the middle for some spice.

Mosstique starts on a ledge that requires some work to reach. From the ledge climb onto the slabby face and clip the first bolt. Then it's up some mostly clean and solid rock until the short "headwall". Surmount this and continue to the anchors.

There is a bit of exposure here and there which makes it fun.

Location

Mosstique

is located past the upper right (south) side of

Red Slab

on some angular slabs thrusting up and east (the bottom of

Ed and Terry Ridge

). The belay ledge is just above and to the right of the left-leaning wide crack just to the right of the scramble to the top of

Red Slab

.

To get to the belay ledge there are several options.

  1. Scramble up twenty feet or so unprotected to the ledge. I wouldn't recommend this.

  2. Climb the twenty feet with gear. Didn't try this, but it looks doable.

  3. Scramble to the top of

Red Slab

and then back down to the belay ledge. The traverse to the ledge isn't difficult but you certainly wouldn't want to fall from there. This is what I did, then I belayed my daughter up the mossy, slabby, west-facing rock to the belay ledge.

Protection

6 bolts to hanger-and-ring rappel anchors. You'll want a quickdraw with a shorter-than-5-inch or longer-than-7-inch dogbone for the fifth bolt.

There are also anchors on the starting ledge to which to anchor the belayer and from which to rappel.