- Edit (TBD)
Description
Located about 100ft uphill to the right of Doggie Deviations. Start at the thin flake and crack. Looks sort of like Crack-a-GoGo, but much harder.
The crux is about 10ft up and involves a big move to a small finger jam. This would be a much more reasonable lead if there were a couple fixed KB's at the start. As it stands, it's pretty sketchy making such an improbable move with marginal wires protecting against a ground-fall.
After the crux move is a bit more 5.11 fingerlocking in pin scars and bad feet. Then climb up and left to a beautiful hand crack splitter (Bottom Line 10d, takes the groove further left). A 5.10d finger crack bulge with a piton is the last difficult section, then more handjams in a corner lead to a ledge. Be careful as you climb past some perched blocks moving over right to the anchor.
Rappel with two ropes. One 80m might make it.
Above the anchor, a short second pitch leads up the dirty 5.8 corner to a walk-off. We didn't climb it.
Protection
Pro to 3" including RP's.
Routes in 5. Camp 4 Wall
- 9Rock Bottom5.11dTrad