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Peak Mountain 3

Rock Bottom

FA Kevin Worrall and George Meyers (1974)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Located about 100ft uphill to the right of Doggie Deviations. Start at the thin flake and crack. Looks sort of like Crack-a-GoGo, but much harder.

The crux is about 10ft up and involves a big move to a small finger jam. This would be a much more reasonable lead if there were a couple fixed KB's at the start. As it stands, it's pretty sketchy making such an improbable move with marginal wires protecting against a ground-fall.

After the crux move is a bit more 5.11 fingerlocking in pin scars and bad feet. Then climb up and left to a beautiful hand crack splitter (Bottom Line 10d, takes the groove further left). A 5.10d finger crack bulge with a piton is the last difficult section, then more handjams in a corner lead to a ledge. Be careful as you climb past some perched blocks moving over right to the anchor.

Rappel with two ropes. One 80m might make it.

Above the anchor, a short second pitch leads up the dirty 5.8 corner to a walk-off. We didn't climb it.

Protection

Pro to 3" including RP's.