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Peak Mountain 3

Burma Buttress

FA Ben Randall, Pete Keane, 2006
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A better variant to Peking's 2nd pitch climbs a nice crack then slab. Very solid for Smith tuff but some lichen keeps it interesting. The most direct start is Chouinard's Crack, passing the chains and belay on gear on a large ledge at 120 feet (hand size) or another one at 140. Climb Peking's corner past a few bulges until you see a flake crack rising onto the slab to your right. Tricky lieback in the crack then quest up 6 bolts to the top of the wall. Finish up and right on ledges to the 4th class top out. Or, go left at the top to a bolt belay on Straght Outta' Peking and climb that route with it's one blank 5.10+ arete move (bring a nut to lasso the stud of one bolt if its hanger is still missing). You could start via Let's Face It, for the full 5.10 slab adventure. There is also a single bolt linking from Moscow, about 2/3 of it's way up, directly to the bolts on Burma, bypassing the lower crack for the easiest approach.

Walk off via Misery Ridge.

Location

2nd pitch between Peking and Moscow.

Protection

6 or 7 bolts. Finger to hand size gear, doubles of a few medium cams.