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Description
Attention: CLOSURE - the Eldorado Canyon SP staff has placed a closure for a confirmed turkey vulture nesting as of 7/3/20.
This route is about 30 feet downhill from
Rush Buick
. It's the obvious, right-leaning, thin cracks and shallow, right-facing corners. It starts right behind a somewhat annoying tree that will try to pull you off the initial hard moves.
This is a challenging route that is much harder than it looks. The angling crack and holds makes it insecure. There are few comfortable rests. You should be good at gear placements. Gear is OK, but not always obvious, and rarely bomber.
For me the crux was the first 15 feet, perhaps because of the barely adequate gear and the nearness of the ground, but also because the tree nearly pulled me off.
The rest of the climb continues hard, and you'll find yourself wishing for just one horizontal hold or good jam.
There's a big surprise at the top (say no more). Rossiter's comment, "...and see if anybody's home" IS meaninful.
Protection
Protections is fair but tricky. Tiny HBs, #0 Metolius TCU at the bottom, up to green/0.75 Camalot. Lots of slings and draws. There are many placements, but few bomber pieces.
Routes in Hawk-Eagle Ridge
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