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Peak Mountain 3

Mass Wasting

FA Brian Smoot, Lynn Ross, 1990
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Mass Wasting

takes the obvious overhanging headwall about 60 feet up between

Ionic Bonding

to the left and

Red Light District

to the right. Fourth or barely fifth class up easy rock (actually the first part of the

Alpenbock Route

) to the overhanging headwall, then punch it past six bolts via somewhat cryptic but great climbing with superb position. Almost as good as

Cross Town

, particularly if the fourth class section is overlooked.

The Ruckmans' 1998 guide recommends climbing the overhanging headwall from a belay at the sixth bolt of

Ionic Bonding

(thereby making a two-pitch climb), but the benefit of having the belay closer to the leader seemed outweighed by the hassle.

Location

Betwixt

Ionic

and

Red Light

.

Protection

Draws, mabye gear if spooked by the approach section. Lower from anchors; single rope is fine.