The River Wild

Belay at the double bolt anchor left of the block on the ledge 100 ft above the creek. Two hard lines depart here: The River Wild and Viagra Falls, The River Wild is the left of the two. The climbing starts with back to back dynamic power throws out of a shallow, right-facing, corner system to a good jug, probably at middle 5.12. This gains a small roof with a nasty (Repeat that: NASTY) finger lock for the right hand. This is a keeper, and it must be used to launch the crux. Lock in the right hand prior to starting the launch, ease the fingers out of the lock and turn it into an undercling that gets progressively worse as you stack up for the launch. Launch high and left for "jug" (read sloper) and get the feet pasted up ASAP; the clip is right there. Now, I rarely find myself in conflict with Alan Nelson, on whose opinion I place enormous value; however, relative to

Sonic Youth

or

Anarchitect

, I would lean toward calling the crux here closer to 5.12c than 5.13. It is not harder than the roof on

Sonic

and it is not harder than the finishing fin on

Sonic

. It is not harder than the slap on

Matriarch

or the sloper crux on

Anarchitect

. With the feet up over the roof, climbing eases way back to 5.11c/d on smears and largely good hands. Follow a bit of an arching seam with occasionally sinker hands. Overall, this route is positively great. I returned to it today (July 2001) after having not tried for more than nine months and I was still impressed with the great moves, big power, the near perfect stone, and the excellent bolting job. What makes it especially nice is that the hard stuff is over first. Three stars by almost any measure.

QD only and 60 m rope. The route needs about a dozen draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top. This is a pitch off the ledge and while only 70 ft long, you would need either a 60 m rope for descent or double ropes.