Black Dynamite

Bouldery, techie route on the left, with a wicked finish.

Worth some comments. It wasn't set up to climb on chains but this was facilitated by the climbing. The first boulder problem is straight off the ground, and you want it protected, as well as the second clip, which is hard. With belay/gear hanging bolts off the the side, it made sense to have chains. The last bolt, too, is a very hard clip followed by a boulder, and I wanted a fixed draw. That left only a couple, so chained the whole thing.

The bad bolts is almost certainly ok to fall on, since the rock underneath is solid, but this was a sketchy part of the wall with a lot of flakes. Not sure what came off but it could affect the climbing here. Some cleaning would certainly reveal a path that will go. There are a lot of flakes and the basic rock is solid, you're just dealing with flakey-ness that is pretty normal at this crag.

This is a very good route. It starts and finishes hard, and the "rest" isn't all that awesome, so there is definitely a pump factor. I like it more than any 12d in the canyon.

Far left side

Chains