Black Ice - West Face Combination

When nabbed in the proper conditions, the Black Ice - West Face Combination is a surreal journey up the dark side of the Grand, and the definition of classic! The Ortenburger-Jackson guidebook states, "This superb combination joins in a natural way two of the finest Teton routes. The result is one of the great alpine climbs of the range."

Timing is everything on this route, and late season, after a prolonged period of dry weather, is likely the key to finding the most favorable conditions: continuous alpine/water ice in the lower Black Ice Couloir, as well as dry rock climbing on the often wet and seeping cracks of the seldom traveled West Face. Altogether, this combo provides about a dozen pitches of technical ice and rock climbing (some of which is pretty stout for 5.8). At the end of the West Face, continue up to the Owen Chimney and finish on the upper Owen-Spalding route to the summit.

The following description is from conditions found on August 27, 2019. However, those interested in attempting this Teton classic should expect the mixed bag of alpine surprises, including wet and possibly icy rock on the West Face, especially in earlier months of the season.

Phase 1:

Complete the Valhalla Traverse to the start of the

Black Ice Couloir.

This can be a time consuming and tedious process, deciding when to pull the rope out, solo, etc. In late season, expect the traverse to be mostly dry with one especially exposed section of frozen kitty litter, and shattered, chalky rock around the "rotten bowl" between the NW Ridge and the Enclosure Ice Couloir. From the base of the Emotional Rescue Buttress, lead up and left on a pitch of 5.6 rock and belay in the alcove at the beginning of the Black Ice Couloir.

Phase 2:

From the alcove, climb three rope stretcher pitches of ice and mixed (hopefully) along the right-hand wall of the

Black Ice Couloir

(rock gear placements supplemented by a few shorter screws). The West Face route is clearly visible at this point. Near the open bowl where the Black Ice forks into its crux pitch on the right and the Alberich's Alley variation on the left (about 600' from the alcove), lead a final pitch of ice and mixed, traversing across the gun barrel of the couloir to the more sheltered base of the West Face. Look for a "triangular flake" (or block) at the base of a prominent crack/corner system. The route starts here.

Phase 3:

Put the ice gear away and put the rock shoes on.

West Face:

(

pitch numbering taken from the topo in the Ortenburger-Jackson guide):

P1-P2: Climb up the right side of the aforementioned flake/block (5.8). Two old pins confirm that you're heading the right direction. Continue up the crack system into a 5.7 squeeze slot. Pull through the slot and either belay on a ledge or continue into the second pitch. Head up the next crack system. This is described in the guide as "5.7 often wet." We found a thin ribbon of solid water ice, however, it was possible to stem around this hazard on dry rock and get ample protection. End at a ledge, step left, and sling a big block for the belay. Full 60m.

P3: Move far left to the end of the ledge and scramble up a 5.5 weakness to a bigger ledge above. From here, it possible to follow the ledge right and escape to the Upper Saddle.

Move the belay across the massive ledge, past a persistent patch of hard snow, and into the gaping monstrosity of the Great West Chimney. Belay as high as possible.

P4-P6: Climb mid-5th class terrain on the wall immediately left of the chimney, eventually reaching a short, steeper crack (5.7-5.8) that leads to a prominent fourth class ramp. Follow this ramp to yet another ledge with a large flake/block on it. Either belay here or simul-climb past the flake (5.7ish hand traverse across the top to reach the ledge on the other side) and belay on the far left side of the ledge, marked by a fixed pin.

P7-P8: From the far left side of the ledge, these pitches can be combined (watch rope drag). Start climbing straight up the exposed face, aiming for the left-hand portion of a large overhang above. This involves excellent, exposed, 5.7-5.8 terrain on beautiful rock. When a flake is reached (about 20m or so from the belay), move hard right along a sloping traverse that is well below the actual overhang above (don't belay on the ledge beneath the overhang with a fixed nut in the steep crack above - off route). This traverse is the wildly exposed "5.8" crux of the West Face. Follow the sloping ramp until it tapers into nothing, marked by a few pins along the way. Pull some interesting "5.8" moves around the corner (hand traverse and step down to small feet below) and belay at a huge chockstone in the upper portion of the Great West Chimney.

P9: Pull some weird 5.8+ish moves left around a chockstone and continue up and right until you intersect the Owen-Spalding route near the Owen Chimney. Continue to the summit via the OS.

Alternate approach to the West Face:

It is also possible to reach the West Face without climbing the Black Ice Couloir. This looks to be a long, complicated approach that is not trivial by any means. Complete the initial part of the Valhalla Traverse to the NW Ridge, drop down into the canyon, climb up toward the Grand Stand, and lead a pitch of 5.6 to access the lowest of three diagonal tiered ledges. Gain the second ledge, and eventually access the "rotten yellow chimney" at the end of the ledge system that runs below the West Face route. See the Ortenburger-Jackson guide for more specific beta.

The shadowy, cold, incredibly striking NW side of the Grand Teton above Valhalla Canyon.

3-4 shorter screws should adequately supplement rock pro for the BI Couloir. West Face rack seemed to be a few micro cams, a few small-med stoppers, doubles from fingers to #1, (1)#2, #3 - optional #4, lots of alpine draws