- Edit (TBD)
Description
This does live up to its name in spots, yet may still offer the most user-friendly route to the summit of the formidably flanked Hidden Tower. We chose it after an account of loose, heads-up climbing and marginal anchors from the only person I know to have climbed the OG Forrest/Hurley North Face route. The first time we hiked under Hidden in 2015 en route to McYetta's Loaf, there was recent, large rockfall evident on the OG line with much scarring and debris visible on the first pitch and fresh, huge blocks in the talus below. We ruled out Crusher's line since we weren't into the required nailing and Valley Giants. This turned out to be a decent line, although we didn't have time to devote to cleaning it thoroughly. There are still a good deal of loose, hollow features to contend with. With a major cleaning effort, this would go free.
P1- Start with the nasty choss band that rings the base of the tower. Clamber carefully up the left side of a spooky, detached pillar with dual hand cracks to a very rubbly ledge. Step right and aid over a slight bulge with a wide crack to a 2nd ledge. Step back left into the prominent, right-facing dihedral system. Free, aid, or a combo of both up the corner, which starts a bit grungy as an OW and short slot are passed. A 25' stretch of clean handcrack follows, before a large hollow flake must be passed to gain the ledge atop the corner. Free up the handcrack in the short band above. French free gingerly up the final band on some hollow cracks. The belay ledge is huge, and the anchor is about 25' left of where you top out. 140', 5.9, C2
P2- Scramble up loose ledges, aid up thin cracks and up a fingercrack on the left side of a huge, hollow block, and finish up a cool, steep, splitter crack (#1-#4 Camalot) to another big ledge. 60'. C1+
From the anchor atop P2, you can leave all your gear and go ultralight to the summit. Cut right into a corridor until the summit plateau is reached, then follow your nose up through some more clefts and short scrambles to the summit. This summit area is very cool, and very untrammeled feeling; it's a pretty special tower to top out.
Location
In the center of the North (actually more NE) face. There is a 15', detached pillar with handcracks on its left side which marks the start.
Rap off in two rappels with a single 70m rope.
Protection
(2X) red C3-#.75
(3X) #1
(4X) #2
(3X) #3
(2X) #4
(1X) #6
30' of replacement tat for 1st anchor to extend it for a single rope rap.
(1X) 70m rope