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Peak Mountain 3

Main Line

FA Dick Williams, Dave Craft, Claude Suhl, 1965
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A fun and varied route on the far left end of the Nears; well worth the walk.

P1: Climb up to the left-facing corner, and eventually make your way around the arete to your right. Make face moves up the line of least resistance to a stance below the roofs. From here, figure your way up and left (or perhaps down, up, left and left) to the horizontals above. Place some pro to protect the second through the crux moves, then walk 15' right to a 2-bolt rap anchor. 90'

P2: Move right from the belay, and climb straight up past a notch in an overhang (crux, hard-to-place pro). Angle up right through steep rock to the top. 5.8, 60'.

Descent: Rap 40' from slings on a tree back to the bolt-and-chain anchor atop the first pitch. From here, rap 90' to the ground.

Location

Main Line is almost at the furthest extent of the Nears. Look for a big pillar, the Void block, leaning against the cliff. Void Where Inhibited climbs over the low roof that runs across the front of the block, and a crack splits up its right-facing aspect; this is the route Outsiders. Main Line starts about 50' right of this pillar, below a large, left-facing corner, and about 25' right of Mac-Reppy - the fixed sling at the roof of MacReppy should also be obvious.

Protection

Standard Rack. The crux notch on the second pitch can be hard to protect well.