Chicken Lips

Chicken Lips is a route that climbs better than it looks and protects better as well. The gear is 'adequate' as it turns out. Climb up a system of cracks and flakes protecting anytime gear is available, as it won't always be. At just below mid-route, there are 2 options for when to duck left and switch cracks, both take protection just before the moves and require substantial 5.9 climbing above gear before arriving at more protection. Continue upward and onward past a few bolts to a 2-bolt anchor at the top.

There is no single crux on this route, and most of the holds are positive.

The difficulty may be more in the effort required to suss out and place the best protection than it is to climb the moves themselves. You might get pumped if you fuss too much about getting gear when it isn't there.

This climb ascends a crack and flake system just left of

The Apprentice

. One can move up and left from the anchor of that route to reach the anchors on Chicken Lips to hang a TR or you can lead from the ground up to climb this one, starting a few meters to the left and just uphill.

Take a double set of cams from small to #3 Camalot (2x of those to be sure you get good gear when it may otherwise be scarce) and some 2' runners for where you move left at mid-route. A 60m rope should get you down with no drama, but a 50m won't make it.