Eeyore's Ecstacy

This is a Lover's Leap classic which offers a unique experience to the adventurous climber.  It climbs the huge gash between the central wall and main wall.  For the full experience climb this in winter.

From the ground below the gash find two left-facing open books and climb the right one(5.7) to Main Ledge.  Now the fun begins.  Enter the gash and climb three pitches to the top passing most of the chockstones from the  inside of the gash(your choice!).  The climbing is fun and interesting with lots of chimneying and stemming.

P2 ~100ft

Start up the cracks along the left but don't be afraid to do a little gardening on the right! A bunch of hidden jugs and nice edges are covered by dirt and moss. There's a few awkward moves past the garden crux and you'll top out onto a nice ledge with 4(!) rusty pitons and aging cordelette as your belay station. Back up with pro at your discretion.

P3 ~90ft

The beginning of the cave system and a little taste of this route's donkey-braying chimney system. Stem your way up the cave with some exceptional footholds and spectacular stalactites. There are a few ledges with lots of loose debris (pinecones, rocks, dirt, bark/branches) so take care not to shower your belayer with too much choss. There's a few pieces of gear (an orange sling turned green from moss/mold, pitons) but count on placing gear in the cracks up. There's a belay station should be at a large ledge with two pitons on your right while facing the back of a cave.

P4 ~90ft

The crux pitch! Prepare to grunt and bray your way up this chimney system. Start close to the cave as possible and then pull on a rock roof up and over while simultaneously stemming and muttering obsceneties. Not much to say here other than it's a full body workout and you may or may not be covered in moss and bird shit at the end.

P5/scramble up a gully

We decided to rope up here to the top due to the sheer amount of loose soil, rocks, and tree branches along the gully. From the top of P4, it was about 50m to the top. I placed two cams in that distance on the sketchier parts but this could easily be scrambled if you're brave. Exit to the left towards the ledge and belay off a tree where the ground flattens out.

Downclimb:

Follow the trail to the east/north down back towards lover's leap campground.

Find the huge gash which splits the main wall and central wall.

Take nuts and cams to 3".