- Edit (TBD)
Description
Originally, this was submitted as a project.
Per
Thomas Martin 2
: start at the same point as the
GBU
, but go left up the easy slab flowing the bolt line and curving back right to the left side of the roof. Use underclings, pinches, and crimps to move through the blocky lower roof. In the lower roof section, clip the draw from a palm press on the left block with your feet on the right block. From the final crimp and pinch of the lower roof, reach out right to a blind, sloping, 3 finger gaston, and press up to a deep rail. Next do an iron cross out to a small 3 finger crimp pocket, then bump in to an undercling pinch from the rail. Then get a high foot scum on the lip of the roof, drop your knee in to a sloping rail, and bump your hand from the pinch to the good 3 finger pocket in the corner of the dihedral. Then bump your right hand up to a blind, deep, 4 finger pocket jug, and then climb right to the anchors.
Location
This is under the large, clean roof 15 feet left of the
The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly
arete start.
Protection
7 bolts with a 2 bolt rap anchor.
Thomas Martin 2
recommends a longer quickdraw for the crux clip ("I used a 1 foot quickdraw").