Psychedelic (pitches 2 & 3 only)

P1 starts on High E but instead of moving right eventually onto the face it continues straight up the big corner to the GT Ledge at 5.6. Many people do this pitch as an alternative start to High E but I haven't done it so I can't describe it.P2 traditionally begins in the chimney at the left end of the High E buttress off the GT Ledge, directly above the P1 corner. Begin with a few slick chimney moves, and then move left past a tree. The tree is very much in the way, and this little bit of unpleasantness is the only thing keeping these pair of pitches (2 and 3) from being very good. After this, pull the roof at 5.9 with good gear, before emerging onto a stance where one could build a belay (but it is possible to simply continue back right on P3.) [This description of P2 is provided by Eric R.]In the Trapps App it is suggested that one can skip the second pitch of Psychedelic by approaching the alcove from the stack of flakes on P2 of Modern Times. This is what I did to approach P3 of Psychedelic. I would STRONGLY suggest to anyone who wants to do this that you go higher on the stack of flakes than I did. I went across the flakes right at their base, and slightly up to the alcove. This required that I pass some VERY DANGEROUS LOOSE BLOCKS along the way. (See the beta photo.) Afterwards it appeared to me that one could traverse the flakes higher and step down to the alcove, which would be much much safer. The area beneath the loose blocks is always crowded with people and if the blocks were knocked off it could be deadly. Once in the alcove, P3 goes out straight to the right, using the obvious wide horizontal for hands. After about eight feet or so you trend a bit up to a horizontal that continues straight to the right for about thirty more feet, until you reach a sort of blocky, pointed feature. Move up onto this feature, and then it is an easy scramble up and right to the top of the High E buttress. The App gives this pitch a 5.7 rating but I think the guidebook rating of 5.6 is fair. The cruxes are getting started out of the alcove, and moving up onto the blocky feature at the end. It is overhanging with jugs for most of the way, so it is a little bit pumpy. There is good gear in many spots to protect the traverse. This pitch is super fun and exposed, and well worth doing. I gave this pitch two stars but would give it three or four if the approach to the pitch were more straightforward.

The start is the same as High E.

The gear is good for the traversing pitch. The climb finishes atop the High E buttress. You can belay from the top of the buttress using trees or you can stop just before it turns into third class scrambling (as I did) and build a gear belay so you can better see and communicate with your partner. You can descend using either the High E or the Last Will Be First rappels.