[Redacted]

Thin climbing to the second bolt leads to a sequence of incuts all the way to the anchor. If you make it to the first bolt you're in there. Getting to the second isn't bad. After that finding the right path of giant holds and keeping a cool head will get you through. The runout between the 4th and 5th will get your attention. A great tricam placement almost exactly between the 4th and 5th removes the R rating altogether. As far as R rated routes go this one isn't too bad. Everyone in our group found the moves up to the 2nd bolt more like 10c after that it's like a puzzle of runout 5.8.

Left of Just Under the Wire

5 bolts to a lower off anchor. On my second lead of this I was happy to have a 2.5 Tricam between the 4th and 5th bolts. Can you find the spot and make it work?