Roasting Affair

Climb the initial easiness shared with Spiderline, build an anchor on hand-size cams on the left end of the ledge. Climb left, heading up to a (now) fat bolt on decent but thin holds. Climb the face above, looking intently for gear, then slab it out to the shared top ledge/tree with Spiderline. A heady, old-school route, but at least the bolt's good-it was solidly X-rated when I lead this on the original paper-thin SMC hanger and a shorty quarter-incher that left a long rust streak to remember it by. Thanks to the ASCA for the replacement.

Same start as Spiderline, walk the initial ledge left to anchor to start the route.

Falling off prior to clipping the bolt would be a bad idea, but the crux comes afterward, on thin, flexing, crunchy holds. Some finger-size gear up higher helps you relax as the angle relents. Single rack and a long sling (4') for the tree up top keeps the sap off your rope.