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Peak Mountain 3

Dancin' with the Divine (aka the Dallas Kloke Memorial Route)

5.11c
trad
FA Established by Calvin Landrus and Jim Thompson, FFA pitch 1 Calvin Landrus, FFA pitch 2 Tyler Thompson
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

PITCH 1: Climb the first pitch of Lord of the Dance (5.7) or Dance with Ticks (5.10c/d)

PITCH 2: From belay, move left up crack placing gear, move into overhanging corner with three bolts. Short pitch 40'. (5.10c)

PITCH 3: Climb corners and slab with two bolts to broken overhanging crack with two bolts. Continue up and left in crack. Reach over and clip one bolt from the crack and then fire the crux (5.11c). 30 feet of exposured 5.10 climbing pass three more bolts. 90' pitch.

Location

Main Wall East. One can come in from the top of Mt. Erie and rappel the route.

Protection

Mainly bolts with occasional gear placements (cams from 0.4" to 3").

Routes in (d) Main Wall East