We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Queen of the Heartbreaks

FA Shaddow Ayala
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Scramble up to the ledge just below 'Sheila'. Use the belay bolt to protect the easy moves to the first bolt and deal with immediate arete cruxyness at the second bolt. Once you grab the jugs clip the third bolt and pull into the dihedral. Stem your way up the fun dihedral until it runs dry. When you get to the roof, pull around left and onto the face. Touch 'Sheila' for a brief moment and then head right. Climb forever on the amazing face using incredible little crimper jugs. After climbing 125ft. the holds vanish and your options become limited. Clip the last bolt and float through the heartbreaker of a finish. DON'T CHEAT THE ROUTE AND BAIL LEFT! Go straight up the blank looking face to the anchor. This climb is center stage and classic! I can't believe it wasn't climbed sooner.

Location

To the right of 'Sheila' and to the left of 'Eclipsed'.

Protection

17 bolts

chain anchors w/fixe steel biners

-use two ropes to get off or an 80m.


Routes in Pratt's Crack / Dihedrals Area