- Edit (TBD)
Description
Powerful, precise & bouldery climbing on immaculate sculpted golden rock. Some of the coolest holds I've touched. The route can be broken into 4 sections:
From the belay stance 10' right of half cat, climb carefully up the easy slab angling slightly right clipping 1 bolt (runner).
From the stance at the base of the headwall, clip the two bolts, monkey up to the third & lower back down if you value your shins. Fire a 10 move v10 sequence of compression, dead points, precise footwork & some lower body tension culminating at a big move left to a deep diagonal slot.
From the Slot, traverse right through a really cool sequence that requires some strong shoulders & precise footwork to a right hand "smiley face slot". Crank through two very crimpy moves with precise feet to a big flat hold. This section is 7 hand moves, V7.
From the flat hold, keep it together as you swim left then up via generally good holds & high feet. Get one last shake before the Slopey top out.
Lower off via (2) double gates, or climb through another 12' feet of easy terrain to the top of the ledge.
This route was bolted the day my wife told me she was pregnant with my first born son, Wynter.
Location
Approach Via the slab routes below. Or rap the headwall, I recommend linking "cool cat" (10A)
Protection
7 draws, 1 alpine draw, lower off chains